Road Food Round-Up: Barbacoa and the Search for Taco Greatness

A man cuts meat at a Mexico City taqueria.

                                                  “Barbacoa Don Cuco” The white rabbit blinks pink eyes and settles deeper into its nest of foil-wrapped lollipops. No, this isn’t a department store Easter display–it’s just another day at a roadside barbacoa restaurant on the highway between San Miguel de Allende and Queretero. Barbacoa Don Cuco is an airy room furnished with Mexico’s ubiquitous white plastic chairs and tables, a large horno, a sturdy wooden slab where a teenage boy dices meat with a cleaver and an old […]

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Cow's Head, Corn Fungus, and Barbacoa, Estilo Monterrey

People’s Guide correspondent Jeff O’ Brien tortures us with mouth-watering memories of his Mexican wedding feast. by Jeff O’Brien It was a night years in the making and days in the preparing.  My wife and I had just married and my father-in-law threw what I can only call a feast for the ages.  Food and drink enough for an army. In preparation, my suegro (father-in-law) had spent the day driving around with his newly minted gringo son-in-law. We had picked […]

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