How to Get to Ex Hacienda Los Remedios

1. Take Highway 49 (libre) from Ciudad Jimenez, Chihuahua toward Gomez Palacio. 2. After about 70 kilometers, you’ll see a cemetery on your left. Just before the cemetery is a dirt road and a battered sign that reads Ex Hacienda Los Remedios. Turn left onto the dirt road. (If you come to the town of Escalon, you’ve gone a k or two too far.) 3. Follow the dirt road toward two buttes in the distance. You will cross an overpass […]

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Ex Hacienda Los Remedios

A hot spring in the Mexican desert.

After being held up by snow in the pass the night before, we were several hours behind.  Sundown was approaching and we decided it was time to start looking for a place to stay.  Zacatecas would have to wait another day. “Too bad everything is fenced off,” Churpa mused, “Or we could take one of these side roads into the desert and find a spot to camp.” “Or maybe we could find a cheap motel in one of these little […]

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Steve's Worst Nightmare

Semi in rearview mirror.

We clear the border at Agua Prieta in time for lunch. We’re feeling pretty good about our progress. “If we book it, I think we can still hit Chihuhua before it gets too dark,” I say optimistically, slurping on a pork and salsa verde taco. Actually I know Chihuahua is a stretch, but my elation at returning to Mexico is as good as a pair of rose colored glasses: even the potholes and the smell of sewage make me feel […]

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Road Food: Burrito Round-Up

Desert ridge in Chihuahua Desert.

As I’ve mentioned, burritos are not exactly synonymous with Mexican food in my world. That said, Chihuahua is burrito country and I’ve resolved to eat as many as possible as we cross the state’s vast and thorny expanse. Burrito #1-“RR” Restaurant and Hotel, Jamas, Chihuahua The classic Chihauhau burrito is long, narrow, loosely rolled, open at both ends, and served without a fork. This fifteen peso ($1.20) chicken burrito filled the bill and was especially satisfying because we were cold […]

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Road Notes: Janos, Gomez Palacio Bypass, and Chihuahua Libre Highways

Driving from Ciudad Jimenez.

If, on the off chance, you are looking for a hotel room in Janos, Chihuahua, the “RR” hotel is clean and friendly, though extremely funky and rudimentary. For 180 pesos a night for two (14.60 USD) a night, you can’t complain… I concede defeat…El Codo is correct…The coffee at the OXXO mini marts is not bad…I think his exact word was “good”. I’m sticking with “not bad”, but it’s definitely better than gas station coffee in the U.S. I try […]

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Chihuahua Desert Pemex Burritos

I was ten years old and had already eaten my way up and down the country ten times before I encountered my first bona fide Mexican burrito. A burrito in Mexico seemed as out of place as a plate of frog’s legs. “Dad,” I exclaimed. “They have burritos!” Steve chuckled. “Burritos in Mexico. You’ve got to be kidding me!” Detecting some sarcasm, I narrowed my eyes at him. We were sitting in a diner attached to a Pemex station on […]

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Summering in Mexico

A reader writes: Since we live in sunny Arizona, my wife and I are looking for locations with at least relatively cool climates to get away from our very toasty temperatures from May to October during the summer.  Can anyone suggest places in Mexico’s highlands where we might get some respite?  It’s hard for us to be gone more than three weeks at a time because of medical and other commitments, so is there anyplace within three to five days moderate […]

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