Chiles of Mexico: Chiltepín

Pickled and dried chiltepín at roadside restaurant.

“Rich, what’s a burro?” “I don’t know. Maybe a large burrito?” We decide to test our powers of deduction and stop at a comedor by the side of the winding road between Hermosillo and Agua Prieta. This will be our “last supper” in Mexico, and I want something special. I have a good feeling about this place: bright cardboard signs tacked to the hut-like exterior advertise burros, queso fresco, jerky, and salsa chiltepín . I don’t know what salsa chiltepín  is, […]

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Crossing the Sierras

Spitting and Sputtering Our Way Across the Dusty Sierra Madre Carl Lumholtz’s description of crossing the Sierra Madre Occidental in 1890 leaves one quaking with fear of the unknown. Not much has changed in 120 years, but the opportunity to try to retrace his route left us shaking with anticipation. Near the beginning of his journey in Sonora, he describes leaving Granados for Bacadehuachi, and Nacori Chico. This extant route is for four-legged foot traffic and vaqueros only. We checked […]

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Feast of Thorns (Part Two): Tramping the Sonoran Sierras

Hiking in Sonora, a valley of palms in the dry desert

editor’s note: We interrupt the ongoing coverage of The Frank Holton Memorial Road Trip for a much desired update from our favorite Copper Canyon correspondent. The camino real we had been following up and down, and in and out of arroyos and up and over ridges finally ended at a rancho with a corral, a cattle chute and a couple of buildings. The metal cattle chute and trash from store-bought snacks were an indication that a road wasn’t far away. […]

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Slog in the Sonoran Sierras – A Feast of Thorns

As part of our long term goal of retracing the steps of the early known explorers of the Sierra Madre Occidental, we set off from a ranch near the confluence of the Yaqui and Sahuaripa rivers on an exploratory hike. We hope to hike from Sonora to Chihuahua this year, but we’re still trying to find the trailhead! Sonoran Sierra Map To scout the route, we hiked uphill from the ranch house to a panoramic vista that offered a tantalizingly […]

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Guaymas & San Carlos, Sonora

I was a bit surprised at the lack of current (and credible) information on the cost of living in Guaymas but my search did turn up at least very good resource, which is the first in the list below. Most of the other sites I found on Guaymas and nearby communities (especially San Carlos) seem to be more interested in selling real estate than anything else

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