Oaxaca Camping Update

Vinage image of fantastical trailer and camper

  The San Felipe Campground is closed yet again because the landowner wanted to put the property to other uses. Luckily, the camp proprietors found a new property and are opening the Oaxaca Campground, located just off the Pan American Highway near KM marker 17 east of Oaxaca. Their website is still in the rudimentary phase, but does give contact info. We look forward to checking it out. There are also limited spots potentially available at the Overlander Oasis in El […]

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Shopping Oaxaca Markets: Beyond the Tame

Chiles at Oaxaca market.

editor’s note: Our friends Billy and Kaki Burruss sent this dispatch from their annual trip to Oaxaca. For a little taste of Mexican shopping, venture beyond the tourist shops and head south of the Zocolo into the heart of commercial Oaxaca. In just a few blocks you”ll find the excitement and busy bustle of the Mexican shopper. Unlike our department store shopping, here the shops are squeezed together, each offering a different product. You´ll find shoe shops, fragrance shops (where […]

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Stone Soup? Sarah Borealis on Oaxacan Cuisine

Oaxacan stone soup

Visual historian Sarah Borealis talks about culinary tradition, eating in Oaxacan markets, and her new documentary “The Path of Stone Soup,” which explores the culinary heritage of Oaxaca’s Chinantla region. As Borealis explains,Chinantla’s specialty is a freshwater seafood soup “cooked to perfection using red hot stones.” I was interested to learn that the dish is traditionally prepared by men. The 24-minute documentary is the work of an international team that includes Borealis, director Arturo Juarez Aguilar, and César Gachupin de […]

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Top Five Mexican Cities for Hangout Travel

Churpa sits in lamplight in La Condesa.

In 1999, when I was 20 years old, I flew into Mexico City with my friend Abigail. Between the two of us, we carried $1000 in cash. Our plan? Travel from Mexico City to the Yucatan, spend a month hitting all the major sites of interest and then return to Mexico City. Our budget was based on very vague calculations on my part: I’d spent the previous winter camping on a beach on the Pacific coast, and it’d cost me […]

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Food Tourism in Mexico?

A bin of Mole Negro mix in a Oaxaca market

I recently received the following note from a reader who is planning a week-long trip to Mexico for his dad’s 70th birthday. Daniel writes: My brothers and I want to take our Dad to Mexico this December or January–Oaxaca and Mexico City maybe. My Dad is a chef and so we were thinking there might be a guide that could show us the best food experiences with the most appropriate accommodations etc. My Dad has been cooking Mexican for years […]

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Letter from a Reader: Easy Walks in Oaxaca's Sierra Norte?

Couple stands in front of agave on hike in Oaxaca mountains.

A reader writes: I hope this is not too detailed a question, but I have not found information elsewhere so I thought I would give you a try. My husband and I are visiting Oaxaca  and had looked forward to visiting the villages and enjoying the natural beauty of the Sierra Norte for a few days. Unfortunately, my husband is recovering from a pulled muscle. He is fine to walk around, explore villages, (sit on a bench and enjoy a […]

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Letter from a Reader: Monte Alban Guide?

  S writes: I am departing for Oaxaca in March. I would like to hire the charming guide you had in Oaxaca to show us around.  Can you please send me  Señor Diez contact information?  I would love to have such a local “ruin ” be our guide. I am just starting to travel and I wonder what a proper amount for a day of guiding is?  If you could suggest it would be helpful. Kaki answers: Our guide’s name […]

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Is Oaxaca Safe?

Stone ruins of Mitla and old church

A reader writes: We were thinking of renting a house outside of Oaxaca this April. Heard some rumors that it may not safe? Also does one need your own transportation? Are there enough buses around and frequent enough to be taken places? Thanks. –D Churpa answers: For as long as I can remember, Oaxaca has been a politically charged state, with more strikes and demonstrations than most other parts of Mexico. However, this agitation doesn’t tend to be aimed at […]

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Exploring Oaxaca's Pueblos Mancomunados

Couple stands in front of agave on hike in Oaxaca mountains.

editor’s note: the following post is from Billy and Kaki Burruss, who have kindly capitulated to my request for chronicles of their Oaxaca adventures. If you are interested in arranging a trip in the Pueblos Mancomunados, Billy and Kaki recommend Expediciones Sierra Norte. Kaki writes: Pueblos Mancomunados are seven towns that have united to form an ecological preserve. They manage their forests for conservation and firewood, they bottle water, and provide cabins and guides for hikers. At nearly 10,000 feet, […]

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Billy and Kaki's Adventures in Oaxaca: Monte Alban and, Of Course, Food

editor’s note: Our friends Billy and Kaki, who are fellow devotees of Oaxaca, kindly agreed to fill us in on their current trip. Kaki writes: Every time I visit Oaxaca, it’s like the first time, because it´s impossible to remember how perfect the climate is, how wonderful the colors are and how friendly the people. We arrived on New Year’s Eve too late for the special Christmas Guelaguetza but early enough to be kept awake by the firecrackers, cherry bombs, […]

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