Road Food: Burrito Round-Up

Desert ridge in Chihuahua Desert.

As I’ve mentioned, burritos are not exactly synonymous with Mexican food in my world. That said, Chihuahua is burrito country and I’ve resolved to eat as many as possible as we cross the state’s vast and thorny expanse. Burrito #1-“RR” Restaurant and Hotel, Jamas, Chihuahua The classic Chihauhau burrito is long, narrow, loosely rolled, open at both ends, and served without a fork. This fifteen peso ($1.20) chicken burrito filled the bill and was especially satisfying because we were cold […]

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Road Notes: Janos, Gomez Palacio Bypass, and Chihuahua Libre Highways

Driving from Ciudad Jimenez.

If, on the off chance, you are looking for a hotel room in Janos, Chihuahua, the “RR” hotel is clean and friendly, though extremely funky and rudimentary. For 180 pesos a night for two (14.60 USD) a night, you can’t complain… I concede defeat…El Codo is correct…The coffee at the OXXO mini marts is not bad…I think his exact word was “good”. I’m sticking with “not bad”, but it’s definitely better than gas station coffee in the U.S. I try […]

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Slog in the Sonoran Sierras – A Feast of Thorns

As part of our long term goal of retracing the steps of the early known explorers of the Sierra Madre Occidental, we set off from a ranch near the confluence of the Yaqui and Sahuaripa rivers on an exploratory hike. We hope to hike from Sonora to Chihuahua this year, but we’re still trying to find the trailhead! Sonoran Sierra Map To scout the route, we hiked uphill from the ranch house to a panoramic vista that offered a tantalizingly […]

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Chihuahua Desert Pemex Burritos

I was ten years old and had already eaten my way up and down the country ten times before I encountered my first bona fide Mexican burrito. A burrito in Mexico seemed as out of place as a plate of frog’s legs. “Dad,” I exclaimed. “They have burritos!” Steve chuckled. “Burritos in Mexico. You’ve got to be kidding me!” Detecting some sarcasm, I narrowed my eyes at him. We were sitting in a diner attached to a Pemex station on […]

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The Margarita Demystified?

As I’ve mentioned, the history of the margarita is murkier than the drink itself, so I was pleased to stumble across the following paragraph in David Wondrich’s rigorously researched history of drinks: Imbibe! From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to “Professor” Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Bar. The paragraph appears in a section on the Daisy, a drink popular in America before prohibition. “It’s worth going into this much detail about the Daisy […]

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Cow's Head, Corn Fungus, and Barbacoa, Estilo Monterrey

People’s Guide correspondent Jeff O’ Brien tortures us with mouth-watering memories of his Mexican wedding feast. by Jeff O’Brien It was a night years in the making and days in the preparing.  My wife and I had just married and my father-in-law threw what I can only call a feast for the ages.  Food and drink enough for an army. In preparation, my suegro (father-in-law) had spent the day driving around with his newly minted gringo son-in-law. We had picked […]

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Nice Tuesday: A Ringside Seat at Las Luchas

by Jeff O’Brien It was late afternoon. The daytime temperature had hit 45 C and a strong wind pushed it in our faces. We had gone into the city’s sprawling galerias to escape the early afternoon heat, but the time had come for something different. It was my first trip to Monterrey and the first time I ever saw las luchas. Luchadores have been called Mexico’s super heroes–El Santo was as revered as Superman. A lifelong fan of Mexico’s cheesy […]

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Portrait of America

NPR reports that last year 56 people were murdered in Stockton, CA. Sure, it’s no Ciudad Juarez, but this murder rate implies that Stockton is more dangerous for gringos than Mexican  border towns such as Nuevo Laredo (drug war death rate 50) and Nogales (drug war death rate 28). Meanwhile, San Miguel de Allende gets a clean bill of health with zero drug war deaths during the first nine months of 2011. Oaxaca City, Puerto Escondido, Playa del Carmen, and […]

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Summering in Mexico

A reader writes: Since we live in sunny Arizona, my wife and I are looking for locations with at least relatively cool climates to get away from our very toasty temperatures from May to October during the summer.  Can anyone suggest places in Mexico’s highlands where we might get some respite?  It’s hard for us to be gone more than three weeks at a time because of medical and other commitments, so is there anyplace within three to five days moderate […]

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Atlanta to La Paz

A reader writes: Hello…we need help! My husband and I are heading out for a 4 month stay in La Paz, B.C. Sur. We leave Atlanta, GA on Jan.1st driving with our 2 dogs and cat. Any advice on the safest driving route once we cross into Mexico? Our plan is to enter Mexico through El Paso and drive to the Baja Ferry…Topolobampo terminal, Los Mochis. Thanks, Karen

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